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Callaghan
Created in 1966 as a prêt-à-porter line associated with Zamasport, Callaghan remains within a family-owned business managed by the family’s third generation. Walter Albini designed the brand from 1968 to 1972, and its 1971 presentation of coordinated jersey and knitwear looks was described as a significant moment in Italian prêt-à-porter history. Gianni Versace directed Callaghan after Albini until 1986, a period associated with new knit techniques, wire lace, rush-stitch fabrics, and viscose-jersey organzine used extensively in draped dresses. Romeo Gigli became creative director in 1985, introducing an approach centered on proportion, unusual textiles, and a revised conception of women’s dress that marked the brand’s internationally recognized avant-garde phase. Later, Nicolas Ghesquière worked on the Spring/Summer 2000 and Spring/Summer 2001 collections, a period linked to a New York show and international recognition. The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds a circa-1990 Callaghan jacket designed by Gigli, while Zamasport supplied garments from the historic Callaghan archive for the 2018 Italiana exhibition in Milan.
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